A Tale of Two Cities
It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, we were all going direct to Heaven, we were all going direct the other way--in short, the period was so far like the present period, that some of its noisiest authorities insisted on its being received, for good or for evil, in the superlative degree of comparison only. --Dickens-
The town of Mostar, once the administrative quarters for the Ottoman Empire, is now the capital of Herzegovina. That is the suffix you see in the hyphenation, "Bosnia-Herzegovina," which is the official title of Bosnia. The title was adopted in the 18th century when the Austro-Hungarians annexed it from the Ottoman. (Unlike the Republic of Srpska, the other entity of Bosnia in the NW corner, Herzegovina is officially recognised.) Herzegovina is a region that runs on the West side of Bosnia and is an entity within BiH. Rugged and gorgeous, this Mediterranean valley is carved out of the mountains and winds around the river Neretva.
Herzegovina, of Herzog, which was named after a Serb archbishop, was once a hearty mix of Serb, Croat and Muslim. After the war and the "cleanse" therein, few Serbs remain.
Herzegovina today though, is very much Croatian in my mind. Bosnian-Croats have a slightly larger population. Nevertheless, whether standing atop of the old bridge amoung tourists in the Bosniak part of Old Town, or sipping on espresso on the other side of the Boulevard in Croatian parts, the division is clear. All one has to do is look at the enclosed hills and see a most obstructive cross looking down on you.
The town of Mostar, once the administrative quarters for the Ottoman Empire, is now the capital of Herzegovina. That is the suffix you see in the hyphenation, "Bosnia-Herzegovina," which is the official title of Bosnia. The title was adopted in the 18th century when the Austro-Hungarians annexed it from the Ottoman. (Unlike the Republic of Srpska, the other entity of Bosnia in the NW corner, Herzegovina is officially recognised.) Herzegovina is a region that runs on the West side of Bosnia and is an entity within BiH. Rugged and gorgeous, this Mediterranean valley is carved out of the mountains and winds around the river Neretva.Herzegovina, of Herzog, which was named after a Serb archbishop, was once a hearty mix of Serb, Croat and Muslim. After the war and the "cleanse" therein, few Serbs remain.
Croats and Bosniaks (the term referring to Muslims) inhabit Herzegovina. Correction: Bosnian-Croatians.
Another element to the Bosnian mix. Things just keep getting brighter.
And so the splintering/fractionning/dividing of Bosnia begin...
Mostar exists in two versions. It wasn't always this way. Two wars. Two peoples. Two cities. Same blood, same faces. Just two different names. Some Samir's, others Marko's. Muslim names; Croatian streets. Two languages. Two schools. Two places of worship. Two mayors (until recently.)
Herzegovina today though, is very much Croatian in my mind. Bosnian-Croats have a slightly larger population. Nevertheless, whether standing atop of the old bridge amoung tourists in the Bosniak part of Old Town, or sipping on espresso on the other side of the Boulevard in Croatian parts, the division is clear. All one has to do is look at the enclosed hills and see a most obstructive cross looking down on you.